Maintaining your wing foil wing: actions that make it last
Caring for a wing foil wing means protecting it from five things: UV, sand, humidity, the Trailing Edge flapping on the ground, and especially contact with the foil during the session. Equipment needs daily care, with every use.
A well-maintained wing will hold its profile for seasons. Neglect it, and your wing will become marbled, porous, and eventually need a sailmaker.
In summary
- On the water, keep your wing downwind and your board upwind. This simple action prevents a fallen wing from tearing on your foil.
- Sand is the number one destroyer. It works its way between the spinnaker and the Leading Edge, then rubs against the seams.
- Never drag your wing on the beach or in the parking lot. Repeated friction damages the seams and can cause the Leading Edge to burst.
- The backlight test: Inflate your wing, then stand underneath it facing the sun. Every point of light you see is a hole.
- Never rinse your wing if you can't dry it completely. A wing wet with salt water is always better than one wet with fresh water that hasn't dried properly.
UV
Just like your skin, a wing's fabric and a board's deck are sensitive to the sun, especially UV rays. Prolonged, unnecessary exposure wears out your gear prematurely. The solution is simple: if you're taking a long break out of the water, or your session is over, put your equipment away.
The flapping Trailing Edge
If you leave your wing on the beach with its nose to the wind, its Trailing Edge will flap continuously. This flapping causes premature wear of the material and leads to marbling, resulting in a significant loss of performance and increased porosity of the fabric. When you're not using it, put it back in its bag.
Sand
Sand is probably the biggest destroyer of your gear. It infiltrates and then rubs against the fabric and seams, weakening them and eventually causing tears. Clean your wing with a soft brush before storing it, paying special attention to the area between the spinnaker and the Leading Edge where sand accumulates. If you deflate completely after each session, shake the wing to remove as much sand as possible.
Drying
Dry your wing as much as possible before storing it. The easiest way is to leave it on the beach until it dries. If that's not an option, take it out of its bag once you're home and let it air dry. A wet wing enclosed in a bag faces several problems, including valve detachment and mold.
Storage
Store your wing up high to avoid pests. A mouse will find your wing very comfortable for nesting, gnawing on the fabric in the process. Also, avoid overly hot places: the glue used for the valves is thermal and risks melting. Never leave your equipment in the car in the middle of summer.
On the water: wing downwind, board upwind
Taking care of your equipment also means what you do during your session. The most important point: always keep your wing downwind and your board upwind. This prevents the wing from falling onto the foil and tearing in case of a fall.
Whenever possible, avoid falling on your wing or leaning on it when you're in the water; opt for a buoyancy vest instead. And above all, never drag the wing on the beach or in the parking lot: repeated friction damages the seams and can cause the Leading Edge to burst.
The check-up: the backlight test
From time to time, take your wing out of its bag, inflate it away from the wind, and inspect it. The most effective method for spotting micro-perforations: inflate the wing and stand underneath it, with the wing between you and the sun. Every point of light visible through the canopy is a hole.
Even a micro-hole needs repair with self-adhesive sailcloth. If the Leading Edge has cuts or suspicious defects, it's not a DIY repair. A specialized sailmaker must handle it. You can drop off your wing at GlissEvolution, and Charly Workshop will take care of the repair.
Should you rinse your wing with fresh water?
The debate is ongoing. Some believe rinsing with fresh water removes salt, whose abrasive effect is similar to sand. Others think salt preserves the wing by preventing mold.
The rule everyone agrees on: don't rinse if you can't dry properly. If you do rinse, do it with the wing inflated, using clear water at low pressure. Make sure to clean any sand accumulated between the sailcloth and the Leading Edge, then let it air dry completely.
| Enemy | What it causes | The right action |
|---|---|---|
| The foil, in case of a fall | Clean tear of the canopy | Wing always downwind, board upwind |
| Sand | Rubs fabric and seams, eventually causing tears | Before packing your wing away, use a soft brush to clean it, paying special attention to the area between the ripstop and the Leading Edge. |
| Ground friction. | Damaged seams, or a blown-out Leading Edge. | Never drag your wing across the beach or parking lot. |
| UV | Premature wear on the wing's canopy and the board's deck. | Pack your wing away as soon as you take a break; never leave it in direct sunlight. |
| Flapping nose to the wind. | Marbling, porosity, and a loss of performance. | Always put your wing back in its bag instead of leaving it on the ground. |
| Humidity | Detached valves, mold. | Ensure your wing is completely dry, and always take it out of its bag once you're home. |
| Heat | The thermal glue on the valves can melt. | Store your wing in a cool, elevated spot, and never leave it in a car during summer. |
Consider this
- You cannot repair the Leading Edge yourself. While self-adhesive ripstop works for micro-holes in the canopy, any cut on the Leading Edge requires a specialized sailmaker.
- Storing your wing at height is more important than you might think. We often see wings punctured by rodents, not from riding.
- The debate around rinsing your wing isn't settled, and the best approach really depends on your ability to dry it. We're not claiming to offer a universal rule here.
- Proper care slows down aging, but it won't eliminate it. The wing's material will naturally lose its stiffness over the seasons, no matter how rigorous your care protocol.
Frequently Asked Questions
How can you tell if your wing has a hole?
Inflate your wing, then stand underneath it with the sun behind the wing. Any visible light spots through the material indicate a perforation. Even a micro-hole needs to be repaired with self-adhesive ripstop.
Should you rinse your wing with fresh water after every session?
This is a debated topic: salt has an abrasive effect similar to sand, but it also helps prevent mold. The general consensus is: don't rinse if you can't dry it properly afterward. If you do rinse, inflate the wing to low pressure, then dry it completely in the open air.
How can you avoid tearing your wing on the foil?
Always keep the wing downwind and the board upwind. This positioning prevents a fallen wing from landing on the foil's wings or mast.
Can you repair a wing foil wing yourself?
For the canopy, yes: micro-holes and small tears can be fixed with self-adhesive ripstop. For the Leading Edge, no, that requires a specialized sailmaker. At GlissEvolution, we entrust all repairs to Charly Workshop.
Where should you store your wing between seasons?
Store it high up, perfectly dry, in a place that doesn't get hot. Keep it elevated to avoid rodents, and in a cool spot because the valve adhesive is thermal and can melt.
Why shouldn't you let your wing flap on the beach?
The flapping of the Trailing Edge prematurely wears out the material and causes marbling. This makes the fabric more porous, and the wing loses performance. Always pack it back in its bag during breaks.
Does your wing need checking or repair?
Bring it to our Pornichet shop. We'll inspect the Leading Edge, seams, and valves, then give you an honest assessment: is it time for a repair, or will it see you through another season?
